Side Project Brewing
- Cru and Hannah
- Aug 1, 2025
- 7 min read
Maplewood, Missouri
Crusin’ Rating: C+
Booze Rating: A-
This week, we are rounding our limited series on St. Louis Missouri - in case you missed the others, we did a historical tour of Anheuser-Busch and checked out some really solid options at Perennial Artisan Ales. This week, our final stop in Missouri is Side Project Brewing. Side project brewing, owned by Cory and Karen King, first opened in the Side Project Cellar in Maplewood, MO - then later opened the tasting room in 2016. A background in fine dining, chemistry, and a love of wine led him to start home brewing and later led to a job as the head brewer at, you guessed it - Perennial Artisan Ales - as a, ahem, “side project.” And no - it wasn’t until we had started this article that we learned that fun fact - but now it tracks why we enjoy both places!
While we were sorely tempted to visit the cellar, the original location, and now a chill beer, whiskey, and wine bar - that will have to wait until our next trip. We will also have to wait to try the Side Project Pizza - located across the street from the tasting room and opened in 2025 - we had been busy stuffing ourselves full of every type of barbecued meat we could lay our hands on.
Side Project is fairly known among beer nerds - they have a pretty impressive reputation - being named one of the top brewers in the world. The now defunct Ratebeer had named them #2 in the world on two different occasions and the Cellar earned a James Beard Award for bar program in 2015 - impressive for a place that doesn’t mix cocktails.
The tasting room is located in a rustic hardware store of a bygone era that has been brought up-to-speed with new backsplashes of white tile behind the taps, metal and wood stools, and a fresh AC system - but looking beyond that you can still see the old brick and wood that made up the original building. With a roof and some lateral windows just below, and glass on the front of the building, there’s plenty of sunshine pouring into the taproom as the smell of food made in the food truck out back makes its way to tables. The Prankster, Wanderer, Hannah and I grabbed a table close to a window and chatted about what was on the docket for dinner (spoilers, more barbecue). Flights aren’t a thing at Side Project but you can do half or full pours, or even pop open a 750mL bottle to enjoy at your table.
We didn’t snag any food from the kitchen other than some cheese curds that made us a little homesick, but we heard nothing but good things about the Nashville hot chicken sandwich - maybe next time. The tasting room doesn’t have a ton of seating - maybe 50 seats total. Both Frenchie and Family Friendly, there were families and folks relaxing after work on a weekday - taking their pick of the 16 options on tap.
Side Project - when the cellar originally opened - wholly focuses on barrel-aged stouts and other barrel-aged beers. Being fans of wine, the Kings find that oak is just as an important ingredient as any when making beers. They’ve since graduated from those heavy Stouts and Belgians to blends, spontaneous ferments, IPA’s and some Lagers in there as well to appeal to a wider crowd. Even then - I can warn you - this beer is not going to be for everyone - even moreso than many of the breweries we visit. Brettyanomyces beers, and wild ales aged in oak barrels or open top foeders are not everyone’s bag - and even we can only do so many before we need a break - you’ve heard us talk about beers like this before when we reviewed Black Rose Blending, Supermoon, and, most recently, our Farewell to 1840. While the beers are somewhat niche - they are something we tend to chase down when we get the chance as we are sorely lacking many of those options here in Wisconsin.
There are N/A beers, Wine, and canned cocktail options for those who don’t care for beer. But without further ado, lets get into some cold beverages on a unseasonably cool and pleasant day in the middle of June in Missouri:
Afternoon Splash (7.4% ABV)- Double IPA
This IPA had tight soapy bubbles in the head that clung to the glass while pouring a warm yellow. With orange zest, lemongrass, grapefruit rind, and soft pine all making themselves known to your nose, this beer had a soft, understated flavor in terms of hops - not overpowering or dominated by bitterness. Soft pine, the bitterness of grapefruit pith, and a fluffy yet full mouthfeel. I think this was a great IPA for those that don’t love them, I think it had characteristics of both East and West Coast IPAs mixed together to get this mashup of something that demonstrates both without alienating those who don’t look for too much bitterness but isn’t so fruity as to be offensive.
Ambrosia (6.0% ABV) - Saison with Soursop and Madagascar Vanilla
This beer poured a yellow-orange with a slightly thick, white, foamy head that quickly faded. With vanilla, soursop, and citrus all coming to your nose with hints of fermented honey and lemon tart in there. Starting with a brief bit of vanilla and orange when tasting and then a solid punch of sourness that finishes in some light barnyard funk - this was a fun beer to taste and Hannah’s favorite of the bunch.
La Belle Fleur Blend #2 - Missouri Farmhouse Ale - Saison
This beer poured orange-gold, had low clarity, and featured a head with a webwork of tight, soapy bubbles that slid down the glass. Featuring aromas of cherry blossoms, grapefruit, lemon, bright oakiness and flight funk this beer had orange, lemon, tangerine pith, ruby grapefruit, flowers and low funk notes when tasting - finishing dry. This beer was really a delight to my tastebuds and my favorite of the bunch.
The Veil’s Triple Amun (11.0% ABV) - Oat Triple IPA
This beer, that clocks in at a high ABV and given to the brewery by Treehouse (although we don’t think this is a Treehouse-brewed beer) poured a very pale yellow. With tight bubbles on the head spreading around the entire glass and has decent retention. With an aroma of citrus, cantaloupe, and guava on top of rich grain porridge - this beer featured flavors of guava, melon, sweet milk, and vanilla that was balanced by pithy citrus notes from the hops with just a little bit of resinous oil in there. While perhaps one of the smoothest IPA’s in terms of mouthfeel I’ve had this was heavy in the mouth and just too sweet for most of us.
Au Revoir 2024 (6.0% ABV) - Barrel Fermented Missouri Saison
This “Missouri Saison” was fermented in barrels on watermelon and matured for over a year and then blended with other barrels and finished with sea salt. If you read our farewell to 1840 Brewing - you know that a beer with watermelon and salt is definitely going to catch my eye.
This beer pours a foggy gold and has notes of watermelon, oak and acidity when smelling. There’s low watermelon and salt both present, acidity, and some funk. Oddly enough - the one I was most excited for was the one I ended up liking the least. For spending that long on watermelon - I thought the flavor of the fruit would come through a lot more and I also thought the salt would be a little more pronounced. I wanted something more fruity, salty - a quaffable beer for a warm day - but instead this ended up being a bit of a mishmash, rind-y beer that, while good, left me wanting more from it.
Now, some of these beers are niche, and more so - I think what is going to turn people away - and really the reason we don’t keep some of the bottles stocked in our own fridge (other than not being from Wisconsin) is the price. These beers are priced like wine. You’re looking - at the low end at $25 for a 750 ml bottle, and those are far between. Expect to pay 25-50 per 750 ml bottle with some specialties reaching higher than that. It’s steep for beer, especially when most are clocking in the low 5-7% ABV range. Like we said - not for everybody and these are definitely beers to be savored, rather than slammed.
For my money - you are getting some really good beer when purchasing - the brewers absolutely know what they are doing. I think the beers are great - but I do think even for how good they are - they are running a bit high in price. I know it's not fair to compare to places that are now closed - but you can definitely get good beer for cheaper than that. I’m not saying the beer isn’t worth what they are charging - clearly it is because people travel (us included) all over to buy some. But at that price point - it precludes us from keeping it stocked in the Crusin’ for Booze fridge. There are brewers out there that - if you really look, and are maybe willing to travel - that will make these niche beers at close to this caliber for around half the price.
At the end of the day, expensive as it is - this beer is largely worth the hype and I would absolutely recommend at least trying it if you are in the St. Louis Area. While I wish the space was bigger - the beer does speak for itself.
Until next time - keep on crusin’, don’t stop boozin’.
To learn more about Side Project Brewing, please visit their website at: www.sideprojectbrewing.com or on Facebook: @Side.Project.Brewing or on Instagram: @SideProjectBrew