Eagle River, Wisconsin
Crusin’ Rating: C+
Booze Rating: D
This week we are checking out another spot in the Great North Woods of Wisconsin - Riverstone Brewing Company in Eagle River, Wisconsin. As you may recall, this isn’t our first trip up to Eagle River - last time, Tribute Brewing Company caught our eye and made us fans. At that time, Tribute Brewing Company was the only brewery that we could check out in Eagle River. We are lucky enough to keep hitting places that have opened within the past year. Interestingly enough, on our last trip to Eagle River we pulled up right outside the restaurant that now hosts Riverstone Brewing Company so we could get some views of the river before we headed out of town. Now, just a year and a half later, we are back at that same building checking out the newly renovated space turned brewpub/whiskey bar/ tiki bar.
You heard me. A brewpub, a trendy whiskey bar, and an in/outdoor tiki bar all in the same space. There is a lot going on in this space so we brought along Auntie Librarian and Uncle Sloppy to get their input on the space and the beer.
From the outside of the building - the large buffalo statue served as a great indicator we were in the right place. The 20 foot skeleton left up from Halloween yet decorated still for Easter indicated that we were going to be in for something a little unique and the space is nothing if not full of personality. Walking up the steps and entering the brewery - located on the upper level you are greeted with a trendy whiskey bar that could fit into any large city. Custom neons, shelves brimming with sought after bourbon bottles, shiny taps, and chalk beer signs all indicated an eye for style.
I had gotten a brief glimpse of the tiki-style deck from the outside walking in. I made a beeline to see what it was and was pleasantly surprised to see a space that was eagerly awaiting a busy tourism season. With temporary walls made of clear tent-like material for the time being the tiki space was incredibly well lit - if a little chilly on a 58 degree day. Should be a great spot to hang out once the weather starts getting warmer!
Another room, maybe a third of the total space - appeared to be what was the dining room of a small town-family restaurant. Auntie Librarian thought there should be seniors playing cards, that was the look at the vibe. Senior center community room and it was a little jarring when comparing the tiki space and the bar area. Perhaps that room is still in the process of being renovated!
The Bourbon bar and surrounding room reminded us of a SoHo meets Saloon. For instance, there was a large wooden pallet American flag piece of art hanging on one wall, a fireplace complete with Buffalo head mounted above it, and a poster quoting the second amendment. In stark contrast, pink and green custom neons and Edison bulbs. Lest we forget we are in Wisconsin, there was also the customary dive bar gambling machines and pool table.
Auntie Librarian, Uncle Sloppy, and the two of us all agreed that there was a lot going on with the space - perhaps too much. It was a lot of different contrasting vibes and spaces and all of them were great in a vacuum, but they weren’t really fitting together. I could see maybe a trendy whiskey bar and tiki outdoor space working together - maybe. I could also see family restaurant with a kitschy tiki bar outside - I’ve seen more than one up North. All of it together though, was a little too much contrast for a coherent vibe of the space. We all noted though that maybe they are going for something for everyone. A Tiki bar for tourists in the summer - the brewery isn’t far from stairs that lead down to the river and associated piers. I can also see a market for a brewery and expensive bourbons to snag that crowd in summer as well. I can also see the regular Wisconsin staples to snag locals in the winter. That was backed up by the fact that cocktails and an extensive beer list - domestic to import - was available and even on tap next to the beers brewed on site.
We snagged a flight of four, plus one additional sample to taste the five beers brewed at Riverstone.
Hefeweizen (4.07% ABV) - This straw-colored, mildly cloudy beer had aroma of green banana peel and plantain chips. The green banana peel - not banana itself, mind you - carried over into the flavor. A couple of us also noted a tartness which, to me, doesn’t really belong in this style although I’m not sure what would cause it - perhaps the yeast strain? I can only guess. Auntie Librarian picked up corn, and Hannah picked up that tartness as well. I really wanted more doughy-bread in the flavor here and definitely some richer banana.
Cherry Drop (3.5% ABV) - Auntie Librarian’s favorite, this on tap shandy was the same color as a cherry bomb shot with delightfully pink foam. Smelling of cherry syrup, Auntie Librarian - who moonlights at a local bar back home - noted that it smells just like a cherry bomb. High clarity and really a dusty blush color when held to the light Hannah noted:
“This shandy tastes like college.”
Uncle Sloppy noted that it tasted like a sweeter Dirty Shirley. It gave me very much an impression of a Cherry Sprite that you make yourself out of one of the Coca Cola soda machines where you can add any flavor to any soda. Full of lemon-lime, cherry syrup, and lots of sugar. Auntie Librarian was in love. Hannah stated it was too sweet for her, and noted the lack of tartness from any lemonade used. I also put this in the too-sweet category, knowing full well any more than a pint of this and you’d be in for a world of hurt the next day.
Scottish Ale (4.07% ABV) - This beer is classified as a A Scottish Heavy (not to be confusing - “heavy” does not refer to the ABV). This ruddy brown beer had caramel and toffee notes and Auntie Librarian noted that she got a slightly woody note, that coupled with the toffee reminded her a bit of scotch whiskey. I thought there was a little fruitiness in there - almost like raisin, that with the malt gave the impression of raisin-bread. We all picked up a slight bit of caramel, toasted bread, and that same impression of raisin bread that had a balanced finish (between bitterness and malt). This was my favorite of the bunch.
314 Irish Red Ale (6.4% ABV) - With a rusty hue and high clarity - this was a beer, that to us, smelled largely indistinguishable from the Scottish Ale. I thought I smelled a little more earthiness and graininess, but I was not convinced. We agreed the flavor was also very similar. For my money this should have been a grainier or more neutral offering and although I did pick up some of the correct hop flavors imparted - a little floralness - I didn’t pick up on enough for me to consistently tell the difference between the two if blind taste-testing. This was an interesting choice - to me - to have an Irish red and Scottish Ale both on the menu from a tasting standpoint. The Irish is going to have a few similar notes to the Scottish but really should be different enough to be distinguishable fairly easily.
Porter (4.07% ABV) - Straightforward, this Porter was dark brown with a hint of ruby when held to the light. An aroma of lightly burnt malt, and earthy hops greets your nose. This was a fairly easy-drinking Porter. Lightly burnt malt, quite lightly burnt dark malt taste with a hint of resinous coffee and dry finish. We all agreed the mouthfeel here was very light for a Porter so much so that Auntie Librarian noted:
“This is a Porter made for a Porter wuss.”
While the beers did not necessarily hit the high mark for all of us, we did try their house root beer and it was the perfect root beer to pair with some vanilla ice cream - high on sassafras and not syrupy-sweet. This was a brewery that I hope is still finding it’s footing. While I absolutely hope that the beer improves - it is a long drive to go out and try it. If we end up back in Eagle River, especially in the summer when that tiki bar is open, I’d definitely check that out and probably try the beer again. However this is a brewery that I would not make a pilgrimage to for the beer alone. If you happen to vacation or hunt up there, we’d love to hear about their progress or your thoughts on their beer!
Better luck next time, keep on Crusin’, don’t stop boozin!
To learn more about Riverstone Brewing Company, please visit their website at: riverstonebrewingcompany.com or on Facebook: @RiverstoneBrewingCompany
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